Project being conducted off Angus coast is helping to forecast coastal flooding

The Scottish Environment Protection Agency (SEPA) has announced a significant advancement in its flood risk management capabilities with the deployment of Scotland’s first public “near-shore” wave buoys for monitoring coastal flooding.

The wave buoys, deployed near Arbroath and Eyemouth, are part of a comprehensive UK-wide WaveNet network co-ordinated by the Centre for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture Science (CEFAS), which provides critical information to better protect communities, infrastructure, and ecosystems.

The buoys collect a wide range of data, including wave height, frequency, and direction. By analysing this data, SEPA aim to develop more accurate flood risk maps and improve the monitoring, forecasting and warning of coastal flooding events.

Steve McFarland, lead coastal flooding specialist, said: "Understanding the behaviour of waves is crucial for predicting and preparing for coastal flooding. The data from these wave buoys gives us invaluable insights into wave patterns and long-term trends, which are essential for creating robust flood risk models, protecting our coastal communities and helping them adapt to climate change."

The data also provides a more detailed and dynamic understanding of how coastal areas are affected by waves and storm surges. By integrating real-time wave data into existing modelling systems, SEPA can identify areas most at risk of flooding and generate more precise flood risk maps.

This improved accuracy helps refine coastal flood forecasting. SEPA can use the data to better predict flooding from waves and provide timely warnings to communities, local authorities and emergency responders.

Coastal flooding occurs at the shoreline, and so understanding wave conditions there is critical for providing an accurate prediction for communities. The wave buoys also offer valuable data for monitoring long-term trends in wave behaviour, critical for assessing the impacts of climate change.